Grand Canyon

After the family dragged Rob away from riding paradise, well

Condor talk and tracking device

we really didn’t book for a Saturday night and have to leave, we made our way to the Grand Canyon. There was a quick side trip to Camp Verde and Montezuma Castle, a Pueblo cliff dwelling. Then an easy drive up the road to a place we all dream of visiting. Except maybe for a nine year old who really had no idea what it was all about. We arrived mid-afternoon, did the usual 10 minute RV park, connect and level, and quickly jumped on the bikes for a ride to the rim. The drive to GC from the south is flat and basically is on a slowly rising plateau, you would have no idea what is hiding in the distance, then all of a sudden there it is. The first sight of the GC was impressive, however there was so much to take in

Trying to take it all in, day 1

and it was hard to fully appreciate what we were observing. We were very impressed (particularly Symi) with the rangers talk on the Californian Condors. These amazing birds with a 9.5ft wingspan were down to 22 in numbers in 1987 when they were controversially all captured and put into a breeding program. This has been a success and they started releasing them again in 1996. They are now breeding in the wild and they number 410, both in the wild and in the breeding program. We have been on the lookout to see one ever since but so far with no success.

It wasn’t until the next day when we had a chance to get orientated and truly understand the geological nature of the canyon that we really began to appreciate the scale and amazing history that we were observing. As the information

Another scenic shot

said “Grand Canyon is a landscape not a chasm”.  We did the ‘walk of ages trail’ on the rim trail from Mather Point to GC Village, along the way there are polished rock samples showing the different rock layers of the canyon and their ages in millions of years. The deeper you go, the older the rock. However it’s amazing to realise the GC has only been carved over the past 6 million years. It was at this point that Symi became truly excited by what she was seeing.

The following day we did what you need to do to truly appreciate the GC, which is descend into it. We chose the South Kaibab Trail that starts at the rim (rock 270 million

South Kaibab Trail

years old) basically follows a ridge down, down, down. We chose the longest recommended day hike on this trail which was 3 miles down from 7200ft (we measure in American now!) to 5200ft. Along the way we passed Ooh Aah point and Cedar Ridge (where we lost about 90% of the other people on the trail) before arriving at our turnaround of Skeleton Point. At Skeleton Point (rock now 370 million years old) you still can’t see the Colorado River which is down another amazing 2600ft. Rob was immediately captivated by the trail announcing that he wants to return later in the year to do a three day hike down to the river and back out. Amazingly Fiona and Symi were also captivated enough to agree. That night we all slept well.

Next day we spent doing some school work in the morning as it was windy and cold. In the afternoon we did a bit more exploring of the village. There is a lot of interesting social history to read about and interesting architecture to see. The evening saw us braving the cold as Symi was very keen to attend the Nocturnal Animal Talk. It was freezing up on the rim at night. Too cold for any nocturnal animals not to mention humans. On a completely different tack – we love our RV and its gas heating – talk about glamping (glamour camping for those who don’t know). Anyway, the ranger was very interesting and once again we were pleased with how much we learned. Anyone else know the origin of the expression – “lets hightail it out of here”? One nights free accommodation in the RV for the first correct answer. The talks and hiking all contributed to Symi becoming a Junior Ranger at Grand Canyon, she has been sworn in and has a badge.

Day three at the Canyon and Rob is feeling the need to “spin the legs”. Bikes off the back of the RV (for Symi and Fiona) and out of the warm comfort of the front seat of the RV – for Rob) and we were off on a 13 mile rim ride out to Hermits Rest. Symi was lured with the promise of Hot Chocolate at 

Bright Angel Trail to Plateau Point

the end and a shuttle ride back (the shuttles have bike racks on them). It was one of our colder days. We had to keep getting off the bikes to warm up but every mile or so there was another amazing view to give us a reason to do so. We were riding west along the rim and this area has some very good views of the Colorado River which we all enjoyed. The hot chocolates were very welcome and were consumed in front of a fire in a lovely historic building overlooking the view. In Top Gear tradition, Rob raced the shuttle bus back and lost – only just.

Last day in Grand Canyon was another hike down below the rim. This time on the historic Bright Angel Trail which has been used since prehistoric times. Symi and Fiona

Top of Bright Angel Trail

completed a similar hike distance and elevation change to the last hike. Rob decided to double both and try and hike out to the edge of the Plateau Point. His hike was 12 miles in total and descended about 3600ft. He was a little tired by the end and did admit to heavy legs the next day.

Our last night in the GC Symi found kids! She had a wonderful time with two girls from Phoenix. They spent their time bike riding and Mule Deer spotting. Symi was very sad

Tunnel, Bright Angel Trail

to leave them the next morning. We headed out to the east of the park stopping for some more spectacular Canyon views on the way as well as an interesting visit to the watchtower at Desert View where we had some of our best views of the Colorado River.

Grand Canyon has exceeded all our expectations. We have had a fantastic time and know that the pictures we have taken can never do it justice. Definitely a bucket list destination – and one that we felt needs a bit of time to fully appreciate it.