Glacier National Park



Glacier National Park is large and crosses the border into Canada. The Continental Divide runs through the park, as does the Hudson Bay Divide. You could hike to Triple Divide Peak and throw water on the top and it would flow north, west and south. Those with small vehicles are able to drive over the Continental Divide in the park on the spectacular Going to the Sun Road (GTTSR). Those with 29ft RVs have to go around.

We decided to start on the West Glacier side of the park. As we were a little unsure about being able to get a campsite late in the day we spent the night at Whitefish where we were able to get provisions and charge up our electrical items. We left early in the morning and pulled into the Apgar campground before 8am the next morning to a choice of a few campsites. Our neighbours Pat and Alex, who are retired and have put what they own into storage and are travelling around seeing this great country with a tent, very nicely gave us the more level site out of the two they were considering.

Having secured our site we spent the morning doing some school work and reading up on what the park had to offer. We were very keen to try out our new camera. Yes folks thats the big news this post. After three months consideration Fiona finally made the commitment to buy a digital SLR camera as her birthday present. The back story to this is that Fiona was given an SLR camera for her 21^st birthday. It was stolen 16 years ago in India and never replaced. We have been using our trusty, waterproof, drop proof (read child proof) camera for a number of years. Lately it has been developing some issues and Fiona – as the designated worrier – is concerned we will be somewhere awesome and the camera will stop working. Rob is a bit more pragmatic pointing out that we have multiple devices that take photos. Rob found a great deal on a Nikon (D3200) with a bag and two lenses included and we took the plunge. We are extremely happy with our purchase and hopefully the blog will benefit from the photos. You will have to be the judge of that!

We decided to spend our first afternoon taking the shuttle up the first part of the GTTSR, stopping off at Avalanche for a walk to Avalanche Lake. This was a 4 mile walk which started off flat and then went steadily uphill in the second mile. It is one of the most popular walks in the park so we had plenty of company. We reached the lake easily and spent a pleasant time looking at the view and playing with our new camera. It was getting late by the time we headed back down but Symi and Rob decided to go and have a swim in Lake McDonald which is next to the campground. Like all glacial fed lakes it was cool, very clear and the swim was not too long. They did find a great supply of skipping stones and endeavoured to throw as many as possible into the lake.

Next day we rode our bikes into West Glacier where Fiona was keen to purchase some bear spray.

Symi on the planet walk

Rob was not as keen with a $45 price tag! Fiona felt it would seem money well spent if we came upon a grizzly grizzly. In the end the can was purchased and Fiona became the official bear spray carrier - if you look at the photos carefully you may be able to spot it. On the way back we dropped in on a ranger solar viewing area. We had a great time looking at the sun through telescopes with different filters and leaning more about it. Symi participated in a planet walk with one of the rangers which she enjoyed.

The next day it was up early to get an express

The road up to Logan's Pass

shuttle up to Logan Pass (6646ft) which is on the Continental Divide. The drive up was spectacular hugging the cliffs all the way. Fiona made sure to be near the front of the bus as it was very windy. The weather was clear with a few clouds around as we set off on another of the parks most popular walks, the Garden Wall section of the Highline Trail. The first part of the trail traverses a path in a cliff wall, complete with cable to hang on to. After that it was classic undulating alpine trail all the way to Granite Chalet. On the way we spotted some mountain goats close up and big horned sheep at a distance.

Logan Pass in the background

We also noticed the dark clouds building further down the valley over Lake McDonald. As we neared Granite Chalet suddenly the clouds were over us, we heard thunder and the rain started. Luckily the worst of the storm drifted towards Logan Pass. After 7.6 miles we arrived at Granite Chalet, it would be nice to stay there a night but at $90 each for basic digs this was not an option. After a brief rest we started the 4 mile, 2500ft descent to the Loop. The rain cleared quickly, the sun came out and by the time we arrived at the loop it was hot. All up the walk included 1400ft of climbing and 3700ft of descending, no wonder we were exhausted. Thankfully a near empty shuttle bus arrived quickly taking us back to camp for another refreshing lake swim.

Hidden Lake Overlook

After a rest day doing school work and riding to Fish Creek, it was up early again to get the express shuttle to Logan Pass. It was a foggy morning, by the time the road started climbing it was clearing. On the upper part of the GTTSR we were looking down at the fog in the valleys. From Logan Pass we walked to the Hidden Lake overlook. On the way we spotted multiple marmots and as usual Symi had the camera in hand quickly snapping many photos. This year we have learnt she loves animals and her level of enthusiasm skyrockets when there are animals around or sightings imminent.

Wildlife photographer

Marmmot

Columbia Ground Squirrel

After the lookout we walked up to the Continental Divide on a track that goes towards the summit of Reynolds Mountain. This involved a few traverses across snow and a steep exposed scree slope. The view from the divide was great but the wind was strong and extremely cold. After a few photos we retreated to the warmer trail back to Logan Pass.

Bit windy not just a new hairstyle!

Tubing Friends

Back at the RV that night we started chatting to some of our neighbours who had 3 girls. Symi had a great time playing with them that evening and was very excited to be generously invited out to go tubing on their boat the next day. We had planned to leave the next day but with Symi’s level of enthusiasm about the boat that was not going to happen. Riding Big Mountain at Whitefish would have to wait! (I know – it’s difficult to believe).

After the excitement of the boat we were happy to find that Big Mountain had an alpine slide to provide some entertainment for Symi and Fiona while Rob rode. Symi had written a piece on the slide so I will leave that for her to tell. It is posted along with this.

Top of the mountain overlooking Whitefish town far below

Big Mountain at Whitefish is another chairlift accessed bike park. Late August the season is winding down and is was very quiet. Definitely no lift cues, in fact Rob was lucky if he saw another rider on the trails. The first few runs were the typical tentative riding while trying to work out the trails and dry slippery conditions. After lunch the sunny day quickly became very black as a thunderstorm quickly came over the back of the resort. An hour of rain later the lift re-opened and the grip was now perfect. The favourite trail was Kashmir into Outflow, an awesome flowing descent of 2000ft each run. The International Mountain Bike Association has just voted Kashmir in the top four flow trails in the world for 2014, other people think it is good too! After a free nights camping on the mountain it was another day of sun and showers. Big Mountain was a great place to visit for a couple of days and descend 16 000ft :)

Just more typical bike park berms!